Gt. Victoria

Category: Under £20

On approaching the Victoria Hotel, one cannot help being impressed by the imposing façade.  The Victoria, originally built as a railway hotel, stands shoulder to shoulder with St. Georges Hall overlooking the leafy square towards the Law Courts.

Yorkshire businessmen Thomas Horsfall and Robert Foulston have recently added The Victoria to their Tomahawk Hotels Group and are currently carrying out a quality refurbishment at a cost of £5.5 million. The other hotels in their portfolio are The Woodlands in Leeds and Sheffield’s Aston Hall.

Once through the revolving door I felt I was stepping back in time, the elegantly proportioned foyer, the lofty height of the ceilings, the space. I almost expected to come face to face with Miss Marple and her chums! Were it not for the massive contemporary paintings on the walls you could be forgiven for thinking the building had not changed in a hundred years. Should I have worn my silk smoking jacket and spats?

Restaurant manageress, Debbie greeted us, a pretty young thing who said all the right things, very efficient, yes, very efficient. We were led through the restaurant to our table where the décor is well in keeping with the period.  From the Dinner Menu my wife started with Tomato & Marinated Mozzarella Tart, Basil & Balsamic (£5.50). I chose Creamed Wild Mushrooms, fresh spaghetti & Truffle Oil. (£6.50). Both dishes were well presented & both hit the spot. The kitchen is run by award winning Chef, Paul Sowden, a perfectionist by all accounts.

Margaret, true to her Yorkshire roots, plumped for Roast Fillet of Yorkshire Beef, Braised Oxtail Faggot, Caramelised Cauliflower and Beetroot Jus (£19.95). She assured me the beef was perfectly cooked and full of taste, something of a rarity in some meat these days!

My next choice was Seared Haunch of Barnsley Venison, Crushed Celeriac, Braised Red Cabbage and Chocolate (£16.95).  Yes, that’s what I said, CHOCOLATE. The venison was beautifully cooked and delighted the palette and the red cabbage & chocolate? Well, yes, it worked for me. It also worked for the very elegant, lone, lady diner on the next table whose curiosity got the better of her when she spied my chocolate adorned red cabbage and asked for a report on its taste. I offered her a sample tasting, which she accepted. We both agreed, it does work.

Sticky Toffee Pudding, Butterscotch Sauce and Pistachio Ice cream (£4.95) completed the meal in fine style. The wine list runs to some 70 items to suit all tastes and pockets. The Victoria deserves to succeed and once the refurbishment is complete, I am sure it will.

As for the mysterious lone diner, could she really be Miss Marple?

Reviewed by Howard Richardson

Review Summary

Atmosphere ♦♦♦
Food ♦♦♦♦
Service ♦♦♦♦
Value ♦♦♦

Contact Details

Great Victoria Hotel
Bridge Street
Bradford
BD1 1JX

Tel: 01274 728706
Fax: 01274 736358
www.tomahawkhotels.co.uk