Malmaison

Category: £20 - £30

The Malmasion in Leeds is striking from the moment you walk in with the classy décor only just slightly less welcoming than the smile we were greeted with. On our arrival we were made very welcome, given time to view the menu at the bar and made to feel very relaxed and at home. The dining area of the restaurant has a very French feel about it; rustic furniture relaxed low lighting with the feel that you’re in a very high quality unpretentious place.

The excellent waiting staff who were nothing but helpful, friendly and refreshingly witty all night, promptly providing the table with a superb platter of soft crusty bread, olives, balsamic vinegar and a huge boast that they serve THE BEST olive oil in the world.  As a man of Maltese descent, I have been fortunate enough to sample some wonderful olive oil in the Mediterranean, but this boast was completely justified.

The menu was completely ignored for the next few minutes as was conversation, as we rapidly consumed the delightful appetizers.  When the table before us was full of crumbs the extensive menu was given our full and undivided attention and with the choice we were given - it was needed.  The starters were mouth- watering with, amongst others, smoked haddock chowder “en croute” and goats cheese and potato gratin served with sun blushed tomatoes and olives proving very tempting.  The choice was finally made though on moules mariniere and the oxtail consommé with wild mushrooms. The mussels came out in an awesome looking cast iron pot and an unbelievable smell hit you as you removed the lid to reveal the mountain of mussels within, steamed in a wonderful creamy sauce. The consommé I found out later, is the head chef’s personal recipe developed and honed while he was working in America.  You can taste the attention to detail that has gone into this very intense clear soup. With the starters finished the mains arrived at the right time, giving you adequate time to take in what you have just experienced.  The best way to describe the food is, “More of an experience of fine textures and flavours than just something to fill you up.”

The choice of mains was equally as impressive as the starters with the pot roasted pigeon served with roasted shallots and the roasted venison loin with honey roasted chestnuts equally at home with the humble steak and kidney pie. We decided on seared scallops served with small balls of roasted apples and cashew nuts on a bed of fresh crunchy lettuce and grilled sea bass with Jerusalem artichoke lyonnaise.

The side orders were roasted root vegetables and swede puree which, in  my view, made the trip worth it on its own. The head chef came out after the meal and let slip his secret of the magical swede puree, they vacuum pack the swede and then cook it in water that is boiled to the exact temperature to keep all the goodness and flavour in.  This is evident in the delightful light texture and creaminess - a perfect side dish to any meal.

Plates were now empty, stomachs were full, smiles were on faces and a massive feeling of contentment.  It was a good job our separate dessert stomachs (which we all know we have) were still empty, because the generous portions are more than enough to satisfy any size of appetite, and what a treat the desserts were.  Having been unable to decide on one dessert each we settled on ordering the three most appealing. So without any delay a crumble of winter fruits, dark chocolate tart and vanilla ice cream with hot chocolate sauce came whistling towards our table. The high standard that was set throughout the meal was met and then extended during the desserts and the chocolate sauce that slightly melted the rich creamy ice cream was again another wonderful example of fantastic ingredients.

Coffee was the perfect beverage to sit back with and contemplate the meal and having discussed everything we’d eaten it was impossible to choose our favourite aspect.  During every course there was something that made us sit back, gasp and want to finish the plate straight away. I can honestly say it was a pleasure to dine at Malmaison and having met the head chef it’s reassuring to know you’re eating where the man in charged is excited and passionate about food - and this more than shows at Malmaison.  

So, if you’re a food lover that would like to dine where the food is prepared by a fellow food lover -  you’ll struggle to do better than Malmaison.     

Reviewed by Christopher Bell

Review Summary

Atmosphere ♦♦♦♦
Food ♦♦♦♦
Service ♦♦♦♦
Value ♦♦♦

Contact Details

Malmaison
1 Swinegate
Leeds
LS1 4AG

Tel: 0113 398 1000
www.malmaison.com