Sangthai Restaurant, York

A modern and imposing manor houseis the surprising settingfor Sanghai, tuckedaway in the evillage of Escrickjust off the A19 near York.Upon walking up the gravel driveway my companion and I had to double-take just in case we were trespassing on someone's property.

As we turned the corner we saw the beautiful Thai garden and we knew we were in the right place. The garden has gained a reputation which has superseded the restaurant itself, with plants imported from the east to recreate a stunning and very romantic dining area it's just a shame it was a rainy October night.

Grudgingly we stepped inside, making a mental note to come back on a summer's eve to experience the full beauty of the botanical garden.

The waiting staff, dressed in striking authentic dress greeted us immediately and almost hurriedly showed us to our table without offering to take our coats or to have a drink in the bar area.

When I saw the dining room I again felt that I was trespassing in someone's home. The wicker chairs and peach decor is unpretentious and welcoming, an interior design style known as "Thai colonial decor". Once I sat down I relaxed and got out of the frame of mind that a restaurant needs to look like a restaurant, I did feel at home, it was clean and cosy.

We both ordered traditional Thai beers (non alcoholic for me) and were served with a portion of home roasted peanuts. All my apprehensions were forgotten once I opened the impressive menu. Each dish was explained clearly and recommendations were made for suitable side orders. This is ideal for anyone new to the cuisine or someone interested in the history and background of Thai food. My partner ordered Si Oua (£5.25) a dish from North Thailand a combination of pork sausage made with lime leaves and chill.

I chose the safe option for my starter, the Gai Satay (£5.25) barbeque grilled chicken strips with a peanut dipping sauce, an obvious choice but I very rarely eat Thai food and it's my favourite. However, when the food arrived it was the were mouth watering and my taste buds were revelling at the strong Thai spices and herbs. The menu encouraged sharing dishes as it makes the dining experience more intimate and sociable. Although, I'm not sure how intimate it felt for my partner as I scoffed most of his starter!

I was readily looking forward to our main course, as I looked across the room I saw a couple sipping champagne and sharing a platter of exciting looking seafood. My partner ordered the Poo Pat Pong Galee (£11.75) crab with chives and celery. The seafood choice was extensive on the menu so it was a must to choose something fishy.

I thought I would be more adventurous for my main course so I chose a dish which came highly recommended on the menu, Larb Phed (£10.25 ) a dish of minced duck breast with chillis, lemon grass, lime juice, coriander and shredded lime leaves. The dishes arrived on large platters and the aroma of lemon grass filled the air.

The presentation left a little to be desired; my plate looked like a pile of mince and onions that my good old Yorkshire gran used to make. The taste was a completely new sensation for me, aniseed, lemon grass and coriander left my tongue tingling. I managed about three quarters of my dish but the strong flavour finally got the best of me. The menu recommended the Khao Niew (Thai sticky rice £3.95) which arrived in a bamboo basket and was a refreshing alternative to the strong flavours of the main. We were told to eat the rice with our fingers but the bamboo basket kept the rice piping hot and I opted for the safer fork option. I finished the meal with a deep fried ice cream and two spoons!

The light sweet batter complemented the banana ice cream with a cheeky drizzle of chocolate on the side. It was a perfect finish the cooling ice cream soothed my over excited taste buds and the batter gave me my sugar kick. By the time we had ordered our brandy and coffees the restaurant was empty and the waiter began setting the table for the next days sitting. We took the hint and asked for the bill, realising they were about to close up for the night.

Overall we felt welcomed and relaxed with an exciting menu packed with new and interesting dishes which are more adventurous than many Thai restaurants that I have been to. Sangthai offers individual rooms (for 6 diners) for a very intimate dining experience or the main dining area which still keeps the atmosphere cosy and comfortable. This is a breath of fresh air from many city centre restaurants which feature large dining halls which cram in as many customers as possible.

So why not sit back, relax and enjoy the scents and taste of the east in homely surroundings?

Reviewed by Verity Hudson.

Review Summary

Atmosphere ♦♦♦
Food ♦♦♦♦
Service ♦♦♦♦♦
Value ♦♦♦♦

Contact Details

Sangthai Restaurant
Church Cottage
Escrick
York YO19 6EX
T: 01904 728462
W: www.sangthai.co.uk